Updating a classic style - 2005
Uppers correspondent Alex Roest takes you for an informative stroll down some interesting shopping avenues for this season. The excursion leads to many a pleasant finding.
Much has been said and written about the modern aspect of Modernism and its longevity as such. For the sake of this article let's simply assume the modern bit stood and still stands for a forward thinking attitude (you know it makes sense) and being both inventive and adventurous clothes-wise anyway.
Even in its purest form though, before the so-called Mod movement existed, early stylism meant the use of the then modern Italian cut combined with the very trad Ivy League look. So there!
The mixing and matching of classic styles with contemporary items of
clothing in order to achieve (and in doing so further establish) a look of 'timeless cool' has been the aim of the Soul Stylist from the very start one could conclude. Trendiness as such is merely a superficial business, so to take an influence and give it a little modern twist does have a more interesting effect as opposed to losing yourself in radical trendiness. When given some proper thought that is, because attention to detail has always been important in the Individualist's way of thinking, has it not ? So here goes for this Spring/Summer:
Starting with footwear the current trend for wearing 'dress sneakers' (the classic shoe seems to be somewhat under pressure) reminds me of why people possibly took to wearing bowling shoes. This tendency offers a smart alternative for any casual occasion..jpg)
They come in all colours and there's a great example to be found from Gucci in both black and white, but the ones I like the best are mostly in various shades of brown, e.g. Santoni, Prada, Miu Miu and Scapa, but even Kickers and Gant have joined in the trend.
The humble desert boot is also still widely available and especially the ones from Lacoste look the part. When we're talking classic 60s styled shoes I'd rather leave that to someone else as I'm wearing almost exclusively different styles myself, but there's always DNA Groove from Italy and other trusted brands of course.
Trousers are perhaps best kept simple in order for one to concentrate on shirts, tops, jackets etc. to slightly update the classic Mod style. Filippa K, for instance, has some excellent straight down cotton/linen slacks in 4 different colours and Hugo Boss is also a reliable and affordable source for any kind of slimfitting trouser. French label APC apparently produce the perfect Summer jean with their English style jeans that are somewhat, but not too, baggy. Anyone interested in white jeans/cords should check out Helmut Lang.
That brings us to the next part of this piece. Firstly good quality, body hugging shirts are another thing Hugo Boss are known for. Body and shape permitting of course. Another interesting shirt make is Poggianti, recognisable for the thick buttons and the wide spread Italian collars or alternatively buttondowns. In the field of colourful cotton jumpers, Duffer and Paul Smith are usually a safe bet.
Shame about the Chav connotations (Editors note: Chav being a nickname for English youths wearing sportswear, the name derived from Congo Chavez, a turn-of-the-century revolutionary who, by many, is seen as the spiritual icon of the "Chav"-movement) because Burberry does spot on variations on a Harrington theme,
raglan sleeves and all, in burgundy, red, navy and fawn. Lacoste are good at monkey style jackets and windcheaters in general really.
D&G, who are usually too loud for my taste, brought out various stripey long and short sleeve poloshirts with three-buttons and a double collar for this season, reminiscent of some plain Italian shirt styles. Also the logo is not too prominently on show, something to bear in mind as well, O well-dressed ones.
Finally for those who are prepared to venture a bit further outside those strict, confined Mod boundaries, terrace fashion classics like CP company and Stone Island never fail to produce the looser stylish gear.
Stone Island has some nice three button polo's in cream, black and turquoise as well as some great cotton jumpers. Check out Filippa K's military style jumpers for that matter while you're at it. The most interesting item from CP definitely is a three button linen jacket with patch pockets in a tasty colour I can only describe as pale, rusty brown.
Also check out Hugo Boss again for a handsome navy kagoul and to get back to safe ground again they also do great macs in cream (the one I saw was a zip-up one nevertheless) and burgundy to protect you from the rain. The most fastidious dressers among you won't need bad weather for sporting those I take it. They will look interesting however teamed with a pair of DICO dress sneakers. Those footy boot style shoes have added rubber parts under the leather sole for grip and triangular leather pieces with an eyelet on the sides because of the long laces and for style reasons needless to say.
So, the look will remain but never quite the same!
[Published 7 May 2005]
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