My Favourite Shirt: A History of Ben Sherman Style by Terry Rawlings and Paulo Hewitt (Ben Sherman)

My first came in 1989 from 99X in NYC, NY back when it graced East 7th Street (just across from McSorley's Alehouse). It was a black long sleeved traditional with a "white graph paper lines" pattern (it's still doing ocassional duty to this day). I'd resisted them until '89 as prior I had scoffed at Ben Sherman's because they were de rigeur of the packs of troublesome and obnoxious flight jacket, D.M. wearing NYC skinheads. Soon I began buying them at an alarming rate, a behavior pattern that still continues to this day. Though it would be pompously arrogant to quote the actual number of them hanging in my closets let's suffice to say I more than have enough to represent each year of my life outside the womb on this beautiful planet.

As one might expect "My Favorite Shirt" is a history of the shirt, the man and the image that's endured 41 years. As one might also expect in the tradition of Terry Rawling's other books ("Mod - A Very British Phenomenon" and "British Beat - Then, Now & Rare") it's jam packed with unseen color and black and white photographs of bands, tags, flyers, ordinary folks and of course Ben Sherman shirts. In not so many words, lots of eye candy. Lots.

That said, the book takes meticulous care to give a thorough biography of the man who started it all: Ben Sherman. Ben Sherman was actually born Arthur Benjamin Sugarman in Brighton, England in 1925. Arthur relocated to the U.S.A in 1946 where after a succession of wives it was in California that he learned about the garment trade from his third wife's father, a prosperous garment manufacturer responsible for two highly successful swimwear companies. After a legal name change to Ben Sherman, Artur/Ben successfully applied for U.S. citizenship. Relocating back to Brighton in 1962 when his mother became ill. It was there that the famous Ben Sherman button down collar shirt made it's debut in 1963 and the rest is history. With help from his fourth wife Daphne the company prospered faster than their factories could churn out merchandise. The Sherman's sold the company in 1973 and relocated downunder. After his divorce from Daphne, Ben passed away in 1987 from a heart attack aged 62.

Paolo Hewitt and Rawlings have collected an array of pop stars and personalities (from both "then" and "now") to convey their tales and praise for the legendary garment. It's here that the reading becomes interesting and engrossing. It reads like a virtual who's who of the 60's U.K. music scene with anecdotes from members of The Birds, Action, Animals, Creation (Eddie Phillips reveals the bands famed epaulet shirts were Ben's that had been "acessorized"), Artwoods, Kinks, Dave Dee & Co., Chris Farlowe (who not only collected them but still has them un-used in their original packaging), Troggs, Dave Berry (who writes that Roger Daltrey and Keith Moon would take him to a shop on Carnaby Street to get them on afternoons preceding that evenings filming of "Ready Steady Go") et al.

There's quotes from men/women on the street who were mods/skinheads "back in the day" as well. The late 70's/early 80's are covered by quotes from members of The Jam, Purple Hearts, Flamin' Groovies, Buzzcocks, Undertones, Specials, Nine Below Zero, Chords etc. On the pitch there's George Best (who made sure that his own chain of fashion shops in the late 60's stocked Ben's) and todays Rio Ferdinand. Though by which point with the later the book shifts to a somewhat disturbing contemporary slant that sees photos of barely dressed runway models, glitterati, bleach blonde bimbos, and worst of all Ashton Kutcher (from the U.S. sitcom "That 70's Show" for our non-American readers) in an unbuttoned Ben button up with a Ben tee beneath and a greasy baseball cap proving that Ben's aren't limited to mods and skins but that everyday Hollywood jack asses can wear them too, at least for five seconds till the next fad arrives.

Most distressing and at the same time amusing is the quote supplied from the Def Jam/Phat Farm creator Russell Simons: "Rap is about style. Through their poetry rappers talk specifically about what is cool. With Jay-Z it's those shirts he's wearing - Ben Sherman - with jeans. That's what we're doing in the hood right now". Phew! Maybe my nearest "hood" (Trenton, NJ) is behind the times but I've yet to see the local homies wearing any classic 60's button down's! One wonders what Jam Master Jay had on when he was gunned down. Also on the fad wavelength we get a snapshot of Damon Albarn during Blur's ever so brief "mod" Ben Sherman/suit/DM phase. And there's a photo of a current U.K. band called The Ordinary Boys. Hmmmm. Strangely the book takes an amusing nose dive from 60's ace faces to 21st century slackers with tattoos, earrings and way too much money. I'm certain this is to illustrate the occasional vogue that B.S.'s seem to fall into, but never you mind, when the "hip people" get done there will be more Ben's in discount shops (Loehman's in the U.S.A where you can get them for half the price) and thrift stores (or Charity shops as our colonial cousins call them) for us!

All in all "My Favourite Shirt" is unlikely to appeal to anyone outside of our small circle of friends but it's essential reading and viewing that no respectable modernist type's book shelf should be without. Incidentally my favourite Ben is a late 70's long sleeved number that's two sizes too small, and is a teal, white, navy blue and red plaid abomination that comes out on special occasions.

Comments:

Daniel	nov 16 2004 5:16PM

The Ben display at the Virgin Megastore is truly a horrific display. I can't stand to look at it. But then again I try to avoid Virgin Megastores, too. Not nearly as pleasing as the Fred Perry's at Comme Des Garcons !

Bill Luther	nov 16 2004 9:30AM
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EastCoastM odSceneArchive/

It doesn't surprise me Layla, there are loads of photos of similar tacky displays in "My Favourite Shirt". I recall a few years ago the "New York Times" ran an article where B.S. reps said their target audience for their new line/look were middle aged gay men. This was when they began producing baggy, brightly colored ugly creations lacking button down collars or style.

Layla	nov 15 2004 4:45PM

Sounds interesting Bill. I would like to see it, at least for the pictures, if not anything else. By the way, has anyone else ever noticed the cringe-worthy BS displays in the Virgin Megastore in Union Square (NYC)?

Richard Karström	nov 14 2004 3:00PM

Megs> Amazon send things worldwide, just click on our Shopping Service link to buy your copy.

Megs	nov 12 2004 7:41PM

My Navy SEAL brother goes for some of the loud paisly ones they've been making lately. His fellow team guys are picking up this trend. That and Bikhram yoga. Who knew? I reckon the company should buy a bunch of these books and give them away in promotions. They are always giving stuff away in the States to spread the brand recognition. Is this book available in the US, Bill?

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My Favourite Shirt: A History of Ben Sherman Style by Terry Rawlings and Paulo Hewitt (Ben Sherman)

Everyone has a favourite shirt. Some of you have a favourite Ben Sherman (favorite if you're American like me). And most people who regularly read Uppers probably have a favourite Ben Sherman and most likely can tell you, without hesitation the where, when and what of their first Ben Sherman.

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